Archive for December, 2009

When is Casual too Casual?

Thursday, December 10th, 2009

It started with “casual Fridays” in the summer. From there it has spread like a plague of locust.  The next move was the addition of summertime “casual Mondays”.  It was a short leap to casual dress all summer. One of my customers, who is the senior partner in a major NYC law firm, told me his firm went the full week casual route because the Monday and Friday route made those days “different”, which resulted in lower productivity on those days.  The spread of the internet, which created an army of individuals who could now work from home, or where ever they might be, was another big step down the slippery slide. As a result of these pressures the menswear industry went into a recession long before the general economy.  Many fine men’s shops have closed their doors. How one is dressed certainly affects ones mind set and self image. It also says something to those with whom you are dealing.  One of my customers is the CEO of a major bank.  He related the following: The Ceo and CFO of a company had a meeting on a Saturday to discuss a multi-million dollar loan.  The “customers” arrived looking like they had interrupted  working under the hood of a car to attend the meeting - greasy khakis, topsiders, polo shirts. ( May be it was not a car. Maybe it was a 50 foot yatcht anchored at the marina.) My customer was appalled at the fact that they did not feel the meeting desearved the dignity of standard business attire. Times are changing.

Willis & Geiger Field Shirt

Thursday, December 3rd, 2009

The UPS man often delivers surprises.  About 3 months ago a doctor from the Mid-West sent me a field shirt/jacket with a Willis & Geiger label. It wasn’t made by the “real” Willis & Geiger.  It was made in China. His note told me it was 15 years old, that it was no longer being made, and that he wanted some made. He had never done any business with Winston Tailors or Chipp. Someone gave him our name and told him we could make “anything.” ( This was an obvious overstatement. There are many things we cannot make - for example, we cannot make a car.) The shirt/jacket had a lot of detail.  It had a small bellows pocket and flap on the upper left sleeve.  The large lower pockets had flaps and bellows.  The upper chest pockets had inverted pleats and flaps.  There was an inverted pleat in the back that went from the collar to the waist, where there was a fixed half belt.  There was a high center vent in the back that went up to the waist.  The shoulders had epaulets. Above the left chest pocket were four shell compartments. I assumed the compartments were meant for shotgun shells - what do I know?  I have have since learned that these compartments are meant to accomodate the size shell one would use if you wanted to shoot an elephant.  The final “piece de resistance” was tabs inside the sleeves so the sleeves could be rolled up. We were going to have to make this garment by hand.  I had no idea how long it would take to make; so there was no way I could give the doctor a price.  Because the doctor was not a “customer” I was uncomfortable. I sent the garment back to the doctor, thanked him for thinking of us, and explained why I would not accept the commission.  About a week after I returned the jacket to the doctor a long time customer walked in and gave me a 40 year old jacket that was made by Willis & Geiger.  It was the original upon which the doctors immitation was based.  Because I had a long time relationship with my customer I had no problem telling him I would make one ( He said he wanted 3) and would not beable to give him a price until it was completed.  We made one.  It is a tribute to the memory of what Willis & Geiger was.  If you are in  New York City you can stop up and see it.